Over the Mountain

We set out at 8.30 in Tony’s Land Rover to cross the Swartberg Pass.  This is 60 plus kilometres, supposedly road, but really mostly unmade up stony track, winding and climbing through the mountains from Prince Albert to Oudtshoorn.  

 Thomas Bain, a determined SA engineer, plotted  and constructed the route in the mid 19^th century, using chained together convict labour -  no fun for them, but good for us.  The Pass is stunning.  There are hiking trails and clean air and the Swartberg Nature Reserve.    We saw duikers swiftly crossing the route and a fish eagle hovered above us (all too swift for my camera).  When we got to the top it was grand just to sit and stare.    

The whole route took us about 2 hours. 

Oudtshoorn used to be the centre of the ostrich market in the days when ladies wore feather boas and elaborate ostrich feathered hats.  Apparently there were fortunes to be made by keeping ostriches and regularly plucking them.   But women stopped feathering themselves about the time of the First World War and ostriches are now farmed to be eaten.       

In Oudtshoorn, Jenny and I went to the Cango Wildlife Ranch.  Not exactly a zoo, none of the animals are caged, just confined in large spaces with visitors gazing down from above.     

We took the guided tour with a group of about 16.   “Watch out,” says Gaby, our guide, “Crocodiles will eat people - do be careful not to fall in”.  I’m sure crocodiles do eat people, but this lazy lot were so replete they couldn’t even be bothered to come to her for an offered piece of donkey meat.  Possibly still digesting some clumsy footed soul from the previous group.    

A friendly retired couple from Battersea have come to South Africa by boat – taking 3 weeks on the Olsen line and stopping at lots of places.  I do wish I could persuade Mike, who is plane phobic, to do the same. 

The Ranch is well worth a visit.  All manner of fish, birds and beast.  Snakes, too, but I didn’t go and look.  I’m not fond of snakes.

Later we met up with Tony and sat outside in the shade lunching on fish.   After shopping we went home by the other road – longer and less spectacular but easier and quicker driving.  But there were still wandering baboons and tortoises to be seen.    

We finished the day sitting on the stoep under the stars eating an ostrich stir fry.